Domaine Comte de Vogüé is truly special, their Musigny magnificent. The village Chambolle-Musigny derives its name from its greatest vineyard Musigny, of which de Vogüé owns 7.24 hectares, 80%. De Vogüé Le Musigny has averaged above 96 points since 2005 from Allen Meadows, making it, along with DRC’s, Romanee Conti and La Tache and Rousseau’s Chambertins the greatest wine in the Cote d’Or. The great wines of Burgundy constituent one of the best investments in fine wine, making the headlines throughout 2013 and 2014 in auction houses across the globe; they are exclusive and difficult to source. Increased global exposure and thereon demand has been occurring at a time when Burgundy production levels have been falling, the consequence of this reduction is more apparent as Grand Cru production is minuscule. China has firmly begun to turn its attention to said producers, while other new markets clamber for these great wines; old markets cling to their allocations.
The vineyard Musigny produces less than 3,000 cases a year, while De Vogüé, with the lion’s share, makes less than 2,000 cases a year. Drinkers and investors are well advised to secure cases now, as prices are set to rise further; there is very little available stock in the market at present, as global demand outstrips supply, Musigny will become extremely expensive and very rare.
We have compared De Vogüé’s last six vintages and the 2008, which received 96 points from Meadows with the lowest Price over Points Score at £1,950 for a six bottle case, the equal scoring 2009 costs 75% more at £3,600. It is noteworthy also that Jancis Robinson scored this wine 19/20 and Antonio Galloni 97/100. Wine investors must consider De Vogüé Musigny 2008 a strong buy compared to equivalent vintages and its peers, Rousseau’s Chambertin trades at £550 a bottle and Romanee Conti £7,000 meaning there is a lot of head room; in ten years’ time selling one case could fund the second for free.
Domaine Comte de Vogüé
It is common for Burgundy domaines to be able to trace their heritage back 100 years and a handful 200 years: de Vogüé dates back to 1450 when Jean Moisson built the property. The estate passed through the female line until the French revolution and despite the owners’ exile to England, the estate continued to the modern era when Comte Georges de Vogüé took over in 1925. Alain Roumier, of Domaine Georges Roumier, was régisseur (steward) and instrumental in the work of de Vogüé, during the time of Comte Georges.
Today the Domaine is led by its 20th generation – Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, the granddaughters of the late Comte Georges de Vogüé. The Estate is run by Jean-Luc Pepin, winemaker François Millet and Eric Bourgogne, yes that is his real name, who run the vineyard organically, despite not claiming organic status. The vines have an average age of 40 years, all labelled as Vieilles Vignes. In addition, it has 2.75 hectares of Bonnes-Mares and 1.8 hectares of Premier Cru holdings in the Vineyards of Chambolle-Musigny. De Vogüé Musigny is Burgundy at is exquisite best, with supreme perfume, concentrated ripe fruit, incredible structure and sublime harmony, it can age for 60 years in bottle and take on incredible complexity.
Domaine Comte de Vogue Musigny VV Grand Cru 2008 or 6×75 – £1,950 IB
or £2,354.76 including duty and VATAllen Meadows, Burghound, 96 points
This is also quite reserved at present with an elegant, airy, cool and pure nose that is kaleidoscopically complex as it offers red currant, plum, black cherry and a panoply of floral and spice notes, in particular violet and anise, before marrying seamlessly into mineral-driven and alluring big-bodied flavors that explode on the powerful and almost painfully intense finish that delivers genuinely stunning length. I love the way Musigny can so effortlessly combine a silky palate impression with serious muscle. This should be quite impressive in time though note that it will need a minimum of 18 to 25 years of cellar time.
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