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January 19, 2016

Domaine Faiveley 2014 En Primeur

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Last Wednesday Allen Meadows, Burghound, released his quarter 1 2016 report, which included the majority of red wines from the 2014 vintage. Overall he believes that ‘2014 is extremely consistent not only in terms of where very good to excellent wines were produced in the Côte de Nuits but also up and down the appellation hierarchy.’ The big news in 2014 is Domaine Faiveley was awarded the highest score of 95-97 points for their Chambertin Clos de Beze – Les Ouvrees Rodin and Musigny. In addition, their Chambertin Clos de Beze was awarded 94-97, besting all other producers including Armand Rousseau’s Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze which scored 93-96 and costs four times the price. Incredibly this score puts Faiveley’s leading wines on par with Romanee Conti 94-96 points and La Tache 94-96.

In particular, Mazis-Chambertin 93-96 and Latricieres-Chambertin 93-95 look like incredible value for money and a superb investment opportunity. Meadows is an extremely miserly marker and the 2014 scores he has awarded to Faiveley place the wines in his highest possible tier, yet – for now – they are not priced accordingly. These leading Grand Crus from Gevrey-Chambertin are a remarkable effort and Burghound’s scores are clearing the global market of stock. The value proposition is evident from the table below, which assumes the secondary market trading prices of the leading wines per 6×75.

Wine Price Points
Romanee Conti £50,000 94-96
La tache £11,000 94-96
Méo-Camuzet Richebourg £5,000 94-96
Rousseau Clos de Beze £4,500 93-96
Rousseau Chambertin £4,950 93-96
Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares £3,800 93-96
Faiveley Mazis Chambertin £625 93-96
Latricieres-Chambertin £550 93-95

 

In 2014 this paradigm of quality vs price extends into Faiveley’s leading 1er Cru wines nowhere more evident than their Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers, scoring 92-94 points. Cazetiers is considered one of the best Premier Cru sites in the whole of Burgundy with producers such Armand Rousseau and Maison Leroy producing wines from the vineyard. Cazetiers occupies 8.5ha to the west of the village of Gevrey Chambertin and boarders another great Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru vineyard, Clos Saint Jacques to the north. Cazetiers faces east and is one of the most elevated vineyards in the Cote de Nuits, nearly the same altitude as the Grand Cru vineyard of Chambertin, allowing it to benefit from maximum exposure to the sun in the early hours of the morning. Faiveley’s 2014 Les Cazetiers is one of the highest scoring 1er Cru wines and the highest scoring Les Cazetiers. Its score of 92-94 points putting it on par with Rousseau’s Grand Cru Clos de la Roche, while surpassing Rousseau Les Cazetiers 90-92. At £235 per case of six this standout wine represents an outstanding purchase.

Domaine Joseph Faiveley
Domaine Joseph Faiveley was founded in 1825 by Pierre Faiveley; Joseph Faiveley, Pierre’s son took over the running of the Domaine and gave his name to the business. Faiveley are one of the largest domaines in Burgundy and today the seventh generation of the family, Erwan Faiveley runs the Domaine together with the General Manager, Bernard Hervet, formally a 20 year veteran of Bouchard Pere et Fils. Erwan Faiveley and Hervet have modernised many of the wine making practices and revolutionised their cellars in Nuit Saint Georges, including state of the art barrel presses and custom designed wooden vats. Faiveley is without question one of the most respected domaines in Burgundy while still offering wonderful value and as such is one of the most investable presently in the Cote d’Or.

Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru. 93-96 pts Allen Meadows, Burghound
(from both Mazis Haut and Bas where the two parcels total a remarkable 1.20 ha). A more expressive if less elegant nose features much more sauvage character on the dark berry fruit, humus, underbrush and smoked meat scents. The rich, full-bodied and distinctly powerful broad-shouldered flavors possess evident muscularity along with ample minerality that really comes to the fore on the gorgeously complex, intense and explosively persistent finale. This is a very serious wine and a classic Mazis and I emphatically underscore that this is going to need a very long time in a cool cellar to arrive at its peak. 2034+

Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru 2014. 93-95 pts Allen Meadows, Burghound
(from a very large 1.21 ha parcel). A highly reserved, cool and super-fresh nose only reluctantly gives up the essence of red cherry, pomegranate, wet stone and soft earth aromas. The supporting tannins are even finer than those of the Clos de Vougeot and the minerality is much more pronounced on the delineated middle weight flavors that seem to vibrate in the mouth before terminating in an austere, saline and hugely long finish. In the same fashion as the Clos de Vougeot the tannic spine is fine but quite prominent and plenty of patience is a must. 2031+

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers. 92-94 pts Allen Meadows, Burghound
(from a huge 2.05 ha parcel). A background but not invisible application of wood easily allows the cool and pure essence of red and dark berry fruit aromas that are liberally laced by almost pungent earth, animale, humus and underbrush nuances to shine. There is terrific punch and muscularity to the big-bodied, intense and mineral-driven flavors that display excellent delineation on the beautifully complex and hugely long finale. This is a very serious and built-to-age effort that will require plenty of patience before it reaches its peak. 2029+.

To buy these wines click here.