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January 29, 2019

New Release – Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle 2017, 6×75, £310, 92-94 Pts

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The whites in 2017 are special, far more classic than 2015 and 2016 and on first appearance the equal of the 2014s, a vintage we all wish we had bought more of for whites. In his report, William Kelley of the Wine Advocate states that the whites are ‘classically balanced and beautifully defined by site, these white Burgundies are less tangy and tensile than the 2014s, but they approach and sometimes surpass that vintage in quality. There is a succulence and plenitude to the 2017 whites that makes them very appealing indeed’. Stephen Tanzer of Vinous Media says the whites in 2017 ’stand out for their fresh, pure stone, orchard and citrus fruits and their charm and easy digestibility. The ‘17s will be considered more classical in style than either 2016 or 2015 by those who prefer supple, balanced wines without extremes.’ In short, the 2017 vintage is unmissable for white Burgundy lovers.

Neal Martin in his Vinous red focused 2017 Burgundy report, makes a special mention of a few whites, awarding splendid scores. One however stands out for its sheer value price ratio. He awarded Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Monopole Clos de la Chapelle a brilliant 92-94 points. This places it at least on par with the brilliant 2010, which was awarded 92+ and trades above £400, while promising to outstrip the 92+ point scoring 2014. He says it is ‘The slight nuttiness on the aftertaste completes a very impressive Chassagne.’ He also says it has an attractive white peach and white-chocolate-tinged bouquet that gains intensity with aeration, displaying impressive definition and vigor. The price on release is an excellent £310 per case of six, brilliant value. Such a tasting note and price makes this extremely appealing for a 1er Cru Burgundy of this renown.

This wine is for those in the know, not least because it requires some explanation, what is in a name, let’s start there. The full name is Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Monopole Clos de la Chapelle, Domaine Duc de Magenta – and breath!  The grapes come from Domaine Duc de Magenta, from whom Jadot have a long and exclusive relationship. Clos de La Chapelle is the vineyard designation, sited within Morgeot, the vines wrapping around an old chapel. Finally, as the whole vineyard is owned by Domaine Duc de Magenta it is classified as a Monopole. It gets far more familiar from here on in: the village of Chassagne Montrachet is of course the most prestigious, alongside Puligny.

The vineyard of Morgeot surrounds the Abbaye of Morgeot, that was once a residence of Cistercian monks. The name derives from the Latin meaning border. The vineyard boasts gravel, clay and limestone soils, along with excellent drainage, helping explain the wines wonderful minerality, the limestone helping to develop stony, flinty notes. The rich history of the vineyard and its terroir provides a superb commercial advantage, making it extremely popular, while at the same time scarce. Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Monopole Clos de la Chapelle is given the royal treatment in the vineyard by Duc de Magenta and then in the winery by Louis Jadot, who ferment it in wooden barrels, then ageing it in barrel for 12-15 months.

Chassagne Montrachet is of course famed for nutty, often honeyed flavours. In many ways it is considered to embody both Puligny and Meursault, displaying minerality, with lovely floral notes, along with hazelnuts and elegance. We find that these falvours are enhanced for this leading 1er Cru, with more torque and nutty notes, embodying more hazelnut, rich minerality, grip and structure. We have noted notes of toffee in older vintages, it has a rich tapestry of flavours throughout its life.
In 2017 this wine will knock your socks of; for it is a leading 1er Cru, grown in a hallowed vineyard, priced at £50 and a upper score of 94 points! This is one of the white wine buys of the vintage.

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