Chateau Montrose has just released its first tranche for £1,182 per case of 12, or £591 per case of six. Montrose is broadly viewed as one of the wines of the vintage in 2017, as it was in 2016. Benefitting from the natural protection of St-Estephe, the 2017 is as good as any great vintage for Chateau Montrose. In 2017 it has been awarded 96-99 from the Wine Advocate, with Lisa Perrotti-Brown declaring it is ‘one of the greatest Montrose’s I have tasted’.
The release price this morning represents a 2.5%-pound discount to the release price of the 2016, yet a 24% discount to its current trading price. Moreover, its bracketed score places the 2017 in line with the 99 scoring 2010 which trades at £1,950, a 65% premium and the 98 scoring 2009 which trades at £2,250, a 90% premium. It is worth noting the 2005 remains a very good buy, although the 2017 trumps this, not including the obvious bottle age of the 2005. Today’s first tranche release price offers an excellent opportunity, with good upside. It is also one of the best Montrose ever made and a must have for any cellar. We can expect a 2nd tranche later this week or next week at a higher price!
Chateau Montrose is a superbly located estate on the banks of the Gironde in the St Estephe appellation of the Medoc. Until 1815 it was open countryside covered with wild heather. In 1815 Etienne Theore Dumoulin planted his first vines in the area known as La Lande de l’Escargeon, south of Calon Segur. The quality of the wine encouraged Etienne Theore to expand his vineyard holding, to build a chateau and sell all his land except that of La Lande de l’Escargeon to Firmin de Lestapis. By the 1855 classification the estate stood at 50 hectares and the wines were selling very successfully. At this time the wine was sold under the Montrose-Segur label and alongside the other great St Estephe estate, Cos d’Estournel, was awarded Deuxieme Cru Classe status.
Clives Coates in his 1995 book ‘Grand Vins’ puts forward the theory the name Montrose originally came from the word for the local pink heather ‘mont-rose’. When Etienne Theore died in 1861, his two adopted children inherited but then sold the Estate in 1866 to Mathieu Dolfus who carried on the investment in both buildings and the more unusually for the time, his workers. He built a new chai, dug a fresh water well and built a railway track to the Estate. He built workers accommodation, introduced healthcare and a profit sharing scheme for his workers. Like many Bordeaux Estates Montrose fell on difficult times due to economic depression and new diseases that attacked the vines.
In 1896 the estate was sold to Louis Victor Charmole, who began an extensive replanting programme. Odium and phylloxera attack had devastated the vines and the vineyards had to be replanted. Louis Victor died in 1925, his son and heir Albe died in 1944, so after the Second World War it was Albe’s widow Yvonne, who was left to manage the Estate. In 1983 when Montrose launched a second wine, it was called La Dame de Montrose to honour Yvonne’s contribution. Her son Jean Louis took over the Estate in 1960 and he built a new chai in 1975, he invested in new barrels and steadily the reputation grew and the price of Montrose increased. In 2006 a new chapter began, Jean Louis sold Montrose to Martin and her husband Oliver Bougues. The couple continue to invest in the infrastructure as well as bringing the formidable skills of Jean Bernard Delmas to the Estate as Montrose’s Managing Director. Chateau Montrose has never made better wines; and the 2009 vintage was awarded 100 out of 100 by Robert Parker.
Famed for needing decades to mature, the classic austerity of Montrose has been tamed. It remains a deep crimson wine with richness and strong firm tannins but today the tannins are riper, more complex and a freshness of the fruit harmonies to create a more approachable wine. Its unique micro climate due to its proximity to the Gironde has meant that Montrose escaped the frost that devastated the vineyards of Bordeaux in 1956 and 1991. Its capacity to make good wines in less consistent vintages means gems can be found in the wines of Montrose in vintages critics deem as poor.
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