In terms of price vs score ratio William Fevre’s leading plots, Les Preuses and Les Clos offer potentially the most attractive value compared to quality in the whole of Burgundy. The 2014 vintage in Chablis and Burgundy is receiving high acclaim, with the high scores creating strong demand. William Fevre, along with Raveneau is now widely considered the best producers of Grand Cru Chablis, although others, among Billaud-Simon and Dauvissat are also exceptional. Fevre’s two icons are the Grand Cru plots Les Preuses and Les Clos recognised the world over as two of the best white wines on the planet. In 2014 Les Clos has been awarded 93-96 and Les Preuses 93-95, high scores indeed and magnificent value for money priced at £300 and £255 respectively per case of six.
Les Clos vs. Preuses
Les Clos and Les Preuses are generally accepted as the two best Grand Cru plots in Chablis and it is instructive to provide a comparison. The two are noted for particular terroir characteristics and the flavours these impart, this stands true with the great Fevre. Les Clos is planted on kimmeridgian soil located between Valmur and Blanchot to the east, with a southern exposure that lends itself to more powerful wines, with ripe flavours, boasting delightful stone fruits and powerful succulent orange peel and honey. Often more closed in youth, the wine’s power lends it to long-term ageing, boasting wonderful power and finesse. Les Preuses is found on a slope that becomes increasingly elevated and the vines are planted again on kimmeridgian soil but with limestone bedrock and a compacted layer of clay. The wines are rich, elegant, subtle and wonderfully balanced offering a marvelous juxtaposition to Les Clos.
Les Clos and Les Preuses from William Fevre have seen an increase in price of 66% and 58.3% respectively over the last five years and the market expects this trend to continue, based on the quality and relative value to other great white Burgundy. For £52 and £42.50 a bottle on release, Les Clos and Les Preuses offer unparalled value for white Burgundy and represent an opportunity to secure wines still massively undervalued by the market.
Allen Meadows, Burghound – Les Clos 2014. 93-96 Points.
A broad-ranging array features notes of spice, green apple, grapefruit, lemon rind and copious Chablis elements. Remarkably for a wine that is relatively quite refined, the medium-bodied and concentrated flavors are even more powerful than those of the Bougros, all wrapped in a superbly complex, saline and balanced finish where the citrus character telegraphed by the nose reappears on the explosive finale. There is a bit of wood in evidence but I doubt that it will take very long before it is fully integrated. In sum, this is one to strongly consider.
Allen Meadows, Burghound – Les Preuses 2014. 93-95 Points.
Along with the Côte Bouguerots and Les Lys, this possesses the most elegant nose in the range with an ultra-pure mixture of green fruit, tidal pool, white flower, citrus rind and iodine hints. There is terrific intensity and delineation to the attractively textured and refined yet powerful flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the gorgeously long, balanced and Zen-like finale.
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