Today their Estate boasts 25 hectares, 21 hectares under vine, amorously boarded by hazelnut trees.
The Jewel in the crown is the superb south-facing amphitheatre style vineyards that are ‘Brunate’ and the more elevated south-facing slope of ‘Le Serra’, which scored 92-94 and 91-93 points respectively from Antonio Galloni. La Serra is sited on top of a hill with a wonderful elevation of 400 metres, where it receives continuous ventilation and resultantly delivers the greater floral and feminine style of Barolo. Marcarini’s holdings are the largest of any estate here, currently standing at 5.5 hectares. This vineyard is very sheltered and the wines are very concentrated with great structure in a style Manuel describes as ‘harmonious and elegant’.
There are two main schools of winemaking in Barolo, traditionalists and modernists. Traditionalist create big tannic wines with beguiling aromas requiring longer aging times, while modernists use rotary fermentors, shorter maceration times and small French barrique for earlier drinking and fruitier wines. That Marcarini is a proud traditionalist there can be no doubt.
One of the tenants of traditional Barolo is that the final blend should come from multiple vineyards, with each vineyard providing something different such as aromatics, rich fruit and structure. Marcarini vinifies separately following careful grading of the bunches during the harvest. The vineyard’s crus are called ‘Fontanazza’ and ‘Boschi di Berri’ and have a total surface area of 4.25 hectares. Yields are rigorously managed and planted at a density of 4,000 rootstocks per hectare. The vines are trained in a free-standing espalier and are Guyot pruned; the vines have an average age over 25 years.
In the cellar fermentation methods once again reflect tradition, accomplished in 100 hectolitres vats at 28-30°, whereby the must remains in contact with the destemmed marc. Tradition and the old-style dictates and employs result in an extended six week period of maceration. After drawing-off the wine it ages in (20/40 hl) oak casks followed by a further selection during fining by storing in ‘albeisa’ bottles, which are laid on their side in their oldest cellar. The cellars are a found in a glorious XVII Century building panoramically set against a medieval tower.
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